Designer Lupe Gajardo’s new SS21 collection showcased just recently at London Fashion Week, highlighting the underlying themes of her collection: Zero waste and upcycling techniques, genderless fashion and fluid shilouettes. The collection named “2020.2” was the result of years of research on versatility of the silhouette. She achieved these versatile styles by experimenting with different weaves and weights of the textile themselves. Fitting with the ever growing importance of sustainability, collections like this show that high end fashion can look great and be made sustainably.
Lupe developed a way of pattern making to eliminate excess scrap fabric, achieving this zero waste collection. Her non pattern technique makes the silhouettes body forming, and therefore genderless. Identity and aesthetic was one of the most important things while creating this collection, and that’s easy to see while looking through the pieces. The process of upcycling mixes the two values of sustainability and aesthetic- creating a unique style.
The entire collection was developed whilst the designer Lupe was in this year’s mandatory quarantine. Giving her and her team time to develop these sustainable techniques. Throughout the collection, you can see the unique patchwork style and fabric collage. Pieces are made from mixtures of natural wool, silk and cottons- giving it a luxurious feel.
From sustainable techniques, to the unique aesthetic in this collection there is just so much to see in every piece. We wanted to know more about the story of this collection and how it was created, so we talked to Lupe herself.
Is there a message you are trying to convey with this collection? Can you tell us about it?
I always like to think about how many readings a single proposal can have. In this sense, the concept of “undefined” groups together a large part of the message.
The beauty of the indefinite, the freedom of expression through the body and clothing that accompanies an genderless and timeless aesthetic.
What visually inspired this collection?
Random collages and Dada’s movement
Does living in Chile inspire your designs in any way?
A lot, the Chilean landscape and the scarcity of materials are the creative force behind this collection and most of our work.
Along with using zero waste techniques, how else do you aim to be sustainable?
We work in a timeless proposal with unique pieces that can be used anytime.This encourages conscious buying that will last for years. Regardless of age, gender and versatile for several seasons.
Why a genderless collection?
Because we believe in freedom of expression beyond gender. Today there are many identities that do not identify with stereotypes and we create proposals that welcome and embrace different individuals in their diverse bodies.
How was creating this collection during quarantine?
I started making textiles as collages while I was alone at my home-studio and that was the beginning of everything. I really enjoyed my life in the sewing room, and this time the process was much more intimate. More similar to the process of an artist with blank canvas.
What can we expect to see from you in the future?
Further research into the versatility of textiles and different bodies as support.
You can read more about SS21 collections here.